On the snow leopard’s trails

April 7, 2015

It was early April and the winter was still cuddling with the Himalayas.The road connectivity to Leh was closed due to snow piling on the high mountain passes.The tourist season was one and half month away.The summer was staring at the cold desert of Ladakh from a distance.I was in Leh for the Snow leopard’s trek in the Hemis High Altitude National Park.The Hemis National Park in Ladakh is one of the largest high altitude national parks in India covering  an area of 4100 sq Km and is home to the endangered snow leopards.The wildlife enthusiasts and the adventurers around the globe come to the national park in the winter to spot this endangered beast.

It was the day one of my solo hiking to the National Park.The sky was overcast over Leh and it was a cold morning.The temp was around -6 to -7 degree centigrade and the wind was blowing thick and fast.The thunderous clouds hanging over the mountains were closing in.I was to hike 17kms from Spituk to Zingchen.The cab driver dropped me in the middle of nowhere.That was my starting point for the trek.As he left,I was standing alone in the open with the mountains all around.Putting my 14kg rucksack on my back and holding on to the hiking pole, i took a deep breath and started trekking from Spituk towards Zingchen.

The rain started drizzling after 2-3 km of hike.The dark clouds were closing on into the mountains and it also started snowing light.But within no time it started snowing heavily,the visibility dropped to a mere minimum and the wind gathers the pace.The mountain had suddenly turned into a white snow ball.I was alone on the trail with no one in sight far into the trail.By the time i took out the rain pouch from the rucksack i was totally drenched in the snowfall.There was nowhere to take shelter nearby in the barren and remote mountain and not a single soul was in sight.I kept my rucksack on the trail and sat beside it to wait for the snowfall to subside.I was shivering in cold and the wind was crashing into my back.I thought my hike was over by then and i was contemplating to go back to Leh.It was a horrifying 45-50 minutes wait till the heavy snowfall relegated to a lighter one.I was taken aback and freightened.I stood there for some time to think what happended there.I was feeling colder as i was static for a long time.I decided to continue my trek and started walking again.

The homestay was visible from the trail

The homestay was visible from the trail

It was a long and tiresome hike of 17Km through the remote mountains along the banks of Indus river and then an unnamed stream along the trail up to Jingchen.With the gaining of altitude i was gasping for breath with each step forward.I reached Jigchen at 3.30pm.Jingchen is a remote village located deep inside the Hemis National park at ~ 13000ft comprising of only four houses. I was to do my own camping at the end of day 1.But battered by the rain and snowfall throughout the trail in that inclement weather, I was tired to the bone.I choose a Homestay instead of camping.From the road i climbed to the ridge to scout for a homestay.My breathe was swelling and I was literally struggling to take steps to reach the homestay.As soon as I reached the home, I put down my rucksack and sat at the door of the Homestay.A lovely woman came smiling showing the room to me and asking me for tea.I asked her if she could get me a cup of hot Kawah (a kashmiri beverage) which she said yes.After having Kawah I have gone for sleep as I was feeling headache due to the altitude effect.The moon was rising on the horizon and the mercury was slipping fast. Within no time I fell asleep in that tiny dark room lit with a half burnt candle.


They served love over the dinner in the homestay

In the night I met the all the family members of my host.We sat in the kitchen near the fire discussing how life was in such remote place without electricity and other facilities.I was a stranger to them but their hospitality towards me was second to none.I was humbled by their guesture.They were living in such remote and extreme conditions but they were happy and their smiles were original. We had the local food “Thupka” in our dinner.I never had thupka before but i enjoyed it being with them.

Next morning i was back on the snow leopards’s trail. The sun was shining and the morning was beautiful.It seemed to be a good day ahead.I was to camp next on Rumbak 8/9 km farther from Zingchen.The trail was lonely and on the bright sun i was walking alone in the national park.Suddenly a cluster of boulders started falling from the mountains to the trails.I stopped and slowly moved back to look at the top to see if there could be snow leopards.Unfortunately they were a herd of blue sheep grazing on the top.In the winter the teams from BBC/Discovery/Wildlife depts camp in the national park for months for their snow leopard spotting and documentation projects. After 3/4 km i spotted a team was camping in the middle of nowhere..As i shouted hello,there came a Ladakhi boy from the kitchen tent to whom i greeted Jullay.He told me that was a hiking group was camping there for the snow leopard spotting and the camping and spotting is managed by the state wildlife dept.I wanted to talk to the head of the wildlife dept who was managing the camping there to explore the possibility if i could join them for the spotting treks.The wildlife chief was out on a spotting trek and i waited there for his return. In the meanwhile i asked the kitchen staff if i could have some food for which i could pay. The generous staff served me hot lunch for free and i was over the moon eating lunch as i was starved for days.

The camping area enroute to Rumbak

The camping area enroute to Rumbak

The spotting team came back after one and half hour and i talked to the Wildlife officer requesting him to join their spotting team.He said they didnt have extra tent to accomodate me and i had to sleep in the kitchen.I told him i had my own camping gears and he didnt have to worry about that.I cut the deal with him and asked him how much i had to pay.To my utter surprise he said enjoy the camping and spotting here for free.I fixed my tent and then met each member of the spotting team and also the wildlife team.By that time i was already familiar with the kitchen staff.

Peeping through the lens to spot the big cat in his territory

Peeping through the lens to spot the big cat in his territory

We were ready for a spotting hike at 3pm.With big heavy lenses,long range binouculars and tripods we started our hike to a spotting point. I had never seen such big cameras before in my life.I was  carrying the lenses as if i owned them.It was an arduous hike of one and half hour to this point.The wild life team fixed the cameras and one by one we start putting our eyes through the lenses to the snowlines at the top.The sun was still there but with each passing moment the cold was increasing.We spotted some blue sheeps but the big cat was not in the sight.Again we hiked to the top of ridge for spotting and there also we ran out of luck.On that train the BBC team had fixed there unmanned cameras.It was 5 pm by then and the sun had gone down.The cold wind was sweeping through the valley and we started descending the slopes back to the camp.


The big cats were no where in the sight

It was a moonlit night and after having dinner i had gone for sleep.In the middle of the night one hiker was knocking at my tent asking me if could join them for a hike.As i switched on the torch to see the time,it was 12.30 pm.That was absolute insane to go for a hike in such deep in the mountains in the middle of the night that to in the snow leopard’s territory.We five of us were ready for the hike towards Rumbak. We brought our knives,put on our headlamps and started hiking towards Rumbak following the frozen stream.The mountain was awake on the bright moonlight and the camp had gone for sleep but we were negotiating our steps on that frozen stream. Every other sound was making us huddle together thinking about the camouflaged beast. We could not go to Rumbak as it was far away and within one and half hour we came back to the camp. It was a night to remember.

The tent that sheltered me in the snowfall

I woke up to an overcast early morning.The clouds had engulfed the mountain and were looking ominous.The sun was nowhere in the sight.It was raining light and small snow flakes were dripping into the ground.I was hiking back to Zingchen alone.After some time it started snowing heavily. There was nowhere to take shelter. I continued walking.After some time I saw smokes arising from a distance and I thought there must be something to take shelter nearby.As I walked nearer,I saw the smoke is coming from a tent nearby. When I reached the tent,I saw two men in their mid 50s are cooking something and warming themselves in the woodfire.They were surprised to see me hiking such early in the morning.I asked their permission to take shelter in the tent till the snowfall subside and they let me in.

Their stories of sweat and hardwork filled my heart with joy

Their stories of sweat and hardwork filled my heart with joy

I kept my rucksack aside and sat near the fire to keepmyself warm from that shivering cold.After some moments of silence i began the conversation asking their names and what they were doing there and where they were from.They were from Nepal and working in a road construction project there.Their family were in Nepal and they had not been to their home since last one year.As they were telling their stories, I was simply glued to their stories.Far away from their families,living in the tents deep in the mountains,they were sweating and toiling hard working eight hours daily in that high altitude to earn a living for their families.Their stories filled my heart with joy and happiness.

They offered me the food they cooked in the morning and I accepted their generosity with all humility.After one and half hour the snowfall started subsiding and bidding them goodbye I resumed my hiking back to Zingchen. I reached Zingchen around 11am.There was no vehicle to Leh at that time.I had to wait more than one hour before a truck came carrying sand bags meant for the road construction.I requested the driver to take me upto Spituk and he happily gave me a ride.We reached spituk at 12pm and Sonam bhai was there waiting for me.We had the Salt tea (Namkeen Chai is quite famous in Leh) that he brought from his home.We sat there for some time looking at the Indus river nearby before we drove back to Leh.It was a beautiful trek in the Snow Leopards’s trail. I could not spot the big cat but i would cherish the memory of the adventures and experiences for ever.

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  • Reply OneMoreBackpacker March 27, 2016 at 11:58 pm

    What an adventure! It looks like you met great people, I’d definitely love to trek around there one day.
    Thank you for the great post!

    • Reply Ajaya Kumar Rout April 2, 2016 at 12:48 am

      Thank You so much Daniel.I met really some great individuals in the trek.
      I hope you would walk on that trail someday.

  • Reply Vicki | MakeTimeToSeeTheWorld May 8, 2016 at 3:21 pm

    What an amazing adventure! You seemed to have a great experience and met some wonderful people. I’d love to say that I will get out there sometime, but I don’t think I am brave enough! Your posts are super inspiring – thank you for sharing your adventures!

  • Reply melody pittman May 10, 2016 at 3:26 am

    Wow, you have so much patience and determination. I am sure they were amazing to see in person, however, at roads impassable due to snow in April you lost me> LOL I live in Florida. 😉 Great post, keep on reaching for those amazing adventures.

  • Reply Tom May 12, 2016 at 3:30 am

    I would love to hike around here, can’t imagine it would be too much fun in winter, but to see a snow leopard would be awesome!

  • Reply Monika May 12, 2016 at 8:43 pm

    That lens must be extremely uncomfortable to carry around! 🙂

  • Reply Nilabh Ranjan May 13, 2016 at 11:10 am

    Having a glimpse of snow Leopard is rarest of everything , even trying luck to see tiger in forest. This post is good info for those who are planning for Snow Leopard

  • Reply Loly May 13, 2016 at 12:59 pm

    This is such a well written and poetic post. Id love to see a snow leopard but this looks too cold for me haha. You’re a lot more patient than I am I can see.

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